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Main Street Stage


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Jan 19, 2010
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Nov 27, 2008
Identical bridges? Here is my modeled bridge compared with Disneyland's. There's just one little difference: the bridge I made is for the main access to Carnation Gardens directly from the Central Plaza while the bridge shown in the old postcard was replaced sometime in the 1990s. The design of the two is remarkably similar, wouldn't you agree? While the design is the same the Carnation Gardens bridge is actually much wider. Model photos of the current bridge by the castle can be found in the "agidistrict Platform" album. Oct 29, 2008
The pathway was cut from the plastic sheet and slightly bent and formed to fit the terrain. I glued this in place with 5 Minute Epoxy adhesive. The two bridges visable here have not been permanently installed at this time.Oct 26, 2008
I decided to use a plastic stone pattern sheet to model the walkway from the Central Plaza (at top) to the two brides to the left of the castle moat. I outlined the pathway with a red Sharpie pen then used a hobby knife to trace the edges. I then used a 1/4" hobby chissel to carefully remove some of the landscape material in order to allow the 1/32" thick plastic to fit flush.Oct 26, 2008
The construction of this bridge is complete. (whew!) The railings are ready to be sprayed white.Oct 26, 2008
Here is the arched span.Oct 26, 2008
The last of the three bridges to Carnation Gardens was the most difficult to replicate. The railings of this bridge are complicated so I decided to 'fake it' by using some brass screen mesh.Oct 26, 2008
The Carnation Gardens bridge is almost done. All that's left is to paint the railings.Oct 26, 2008
Oct 26, 2008
Construction of the bridge from the Central Plaza to Carnation Gardens is underway.Oct 26, 2008
Oct 26, 2008
Oct 26, 2008
This shows construction of the bridge railings.Oct 26, 2008
Here is the swan barrier (fence) attached to the underside of the bridge.Oct 26, 2008
Oct 26, 2008
This is a view of the underside of the bridge. A slot has been created to allow to installation of a piece of brass photo-etched fencing which will keep the swans from wandering downstream towards Frontierland.Oct 26, 2008
Three bridges needed to be built for the Carnation Gardens side of the castle lanscaping. This one, located to the left of the castle moat, leads up to the castle courtyard on the "Once Upon A Time" shop side. The abuttments were formed from a plastic stone pattern sheet and the wood planks were individually applied to a styrene base span.Oct 26, 2008
The two quarter-round 'towers' have been secured to the causeway.Oct 26, 2008
The elaborate support footing for the drawbridge has been added.Oct 26, 2008
Oct 26, 2008
Here four of the six banners/torches taken from the Olszewski piece have been temporarily installed.Oct 26, 2008
Creating the moldings (white plastic) for the bench turrets was a bit tedious.Oct 26, 2008
Oct 26, 2008
Oct 26, 2008
Oct 26, 2008
Once I had cut Sleeping Beauty Castle free of its surrounding lanscape I had to construct a new causeway. In this series of photos you can view the steps and progress with the project. The main 'stone' portion was made from a Z-scale plastic sheet with a molded stone pattern. The pattern isn't perfect but it should look pretty good once painted. Here are the four reinforcements that will go on the sides of the causeway.Oct 26, 2008
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The relationship between the foamboard and Ultra-Board is clearly seen here. Sep 28, 2008
After the waterways were cut-out the foamboard pieces were placed in position on the layout. They have not been glued to the layout at this time.Sep 28, 2008
Sep 28, 2008
I'm cutting out the waterways using my hot wire scroll table. The dark vertical line in the center is the cutting wire.Sep 28, 2008
Sep 28, 2008
Sep 28, 2008
Here the Carnation Gardens stage is positioned and the base outlined. The foamboard will be cut-out so this piece can be set to the proper elevation.Sep 28, 2008
The blue foamboard was carefully trimmed away using a hot-wire scroll table around the base of the castle. Sep 28, 2008
Sep 28, 2008
Here is how the area has been filled with the foambord (blue) and Ultra-Board (white). The foot-paths and waterways have been drawn and the castle has been placed temporarilly. The red outline marks the location of the Carnation Gardens stage.Sep 28, 2008
A close-up of the tracing method with the push-pin. I will draw over these with Sharpie pens to make them stand-out better.Sep 28, 2008
I traced the area I'm working on from our park plan onto several sheets of paper that I taped together. I then laid the plan over the layout carefully making sure it was aligned correctly. I then used a push-pin to trace to lines of the waterways and foot paths onto the foamboard by poking holes through the plan.Sep 28, 2008
Sep 28, 2008
The Ultra-Board was cut away after the sidewalks and entranceways had been determined. (note: Tomorrowland's entrance will be handled later) The Ultra-Board was trimmed away so I could fill the area with 3/4" polystyrene foamboad which would allow easy sculpting the elevations of the terrain and cutting-in of the castle moat and other waterways. (note: the foamboard is not available in 5/8" thickness)Sep 28, 2008
Sep 28, 2008
The entire north-end of the layout from the Plaza Inn around to the Plaza Pavillion has been built-up with Ultra Board.Sep 28, 2008
To build up the foundation for the sidewalk and entrances into the other 'lands' around the Plaza Hub, I used 5/8" Ultra Board and cut pieces to fill outwards to the edge of our layout.Sep 28, 2008
The edges were then sanded to blend the piece gently into the base. The entire front of the layout is now filled.Sep 28, 2008
I used a piece of 1/16" X 3" bass wood to fill-out the area in fron to of station base.Sep 28, 2008
After the plywood was in, there still was the additional 1/16" step left in the center of the train station base to deal with.Sep 28, 2008
The base has now been brought up to the 9/16" height at the sides of the train station base.Sep 28, 2008
Sep 28, 2008
The front of the layout needs to be brought up to the level of the train station base. The train station base rises in elevation from 9/16" at the entrance tunells to 5/8" in front of the floral Mickey. I decided to use 1/2" plywood left over from the platform construction to fill-out this area. I shimmed the plywood up using 1/16" X 3" bass wood strips and fastened the plywood with wood glue and five screws.Sep 28, 2008
Sorting and routing the wires.Aug 25, 2008
This was a BIG day for our platform. Our friend and electronics expert extraordinaire, Matt, has finished designing and constructing the circuit that will automatically control our Omnibus. Here, the circuit has been mounted to the underside of the platform and Matt wires the conections from our imbedded magnetic reed switches in the Main Street roadway.Aug 25, 2008
Here's a closer look at the control circuit. This device controls our Omnibus movements by reading closures of the magnetic reed switches (triggered by a magnet located on the underside of the Omnibus) and then directs power to the Faller Car System 'stop' units located at the Town Square and Central Plaza bus stops. The duration the Omnibus is paused at the stops has been set at 1 minute 45 seconds. The duration is fully adjustable. This circuit also has additional capacity to time/control other imputs and will be used to control our Astro Orbitor in a future project. It could also be used to control our Disneyland RR trains. When on, it is really fascinating to watch our Omnibus travel up and down Main Street and 'magically' pause at the stops and then resume its journey completely hands-free. Fantastic job Matt, and thank you!Aug 12, 2008
Here's a quick peek at our Disneyland RR right-of-way under construction. The old foam roadbed was removed (along with the tracks) and a sturdy 'permanent' roadbed of 3/8" bass wood replaces it. At the point where the clamp is (to the left of the frame) a removable bridge will be built. At Disneyland, this RR bridge is necessary to allow vehicles access to the backstage area behind the west side of Main Street. The vehicle roadway which passes beneath the RR tracks dips down sharply to allow clearance for the Omnibus which parks behind Adventureland and in proximity of "The Indiana Jones Adventure." A lot of guests onboard the trains aren't even aware they cross this bridge just after leaving Main Street station. The bridge is actually much wider than the RR tracks require because it also supports a landscaped berm to conceal the view of the backstage area behind City Hall! Next time you ride the trains at the Park see if you can detect this landscaping as you cross over the span. Also, while riding the Monorail on the return leg from the Disneyland Hotel, look to your left as you pass the Indiana Jones show building and, if you're lucky, you might see an Omnibus parked behind the jungle of Adventureland. More photos of this RR right-of-way project coming soon.Jun 12, 2008
Disneyland employs automatic spring-switches on the Street Car line to allow the cars to cross 'through' the rails at the turnouts and always keep them veering to the right. These need occasional maintenance and lubrication which is performed by lifting the hinged tread-plates.May 20, 2008
These two photos show the photo-etched brass 'tread-plate' that is used to cover the maintenance access hatches and reinforce the points of the turnouts. They'll be painted a brown color to represent iron.May 20, 2008
This is a close-up of the finished gutter painting. I ended-up apply a total of seven colors to achieve the look I wanted. I used a light tone of 'aged concrete' for the base color followed by stippling six colors to create the 'stones': Reefer White, Weathered Black, Grimy Black, Roof Brown, Rust, and a custom mix of a light brown/conctere. It meant a lot of work but I only plan on doing this once!May 20, 2008
This is how the street looks around the Firehouse after the complete painting process has been done. All that's left to do is install the man-hole covers, some diamond plate details, and some minor touch-up. Well, I still have to paint the gutters which is the white 'line' at the lower right corner of the photo.May 11, 2008
Main Street really IS all it's cracked-up to be.May 11, 2008
Disneyland's Main Street is under a lot of stress from the daily heavy foot-trafic, weight of the Horse-drawn Street Cars and Omnibusses, and even large parade floats which travel upon it twice a day! Consequently, the roadway has hundreds of cracks in it and there are numerous areas that have been patched-up. I've replicated this appearance by painting areas with darker shades according to my photos.May 11, 2008
The stress of daily use really can be seen on the side street between the Opera House and Disney Showcase. There are numerous signs here of the pounding it takes and the repairs necessary to maintain it. Because the street narrows here, the load cannot be distributed as much as on the wider sections. Also, the heavy parade floats enter and exit through the gates on this side subjecting the condensed road to additional extreme stress twice daily. May 11, 2008
Here is the finished painting process showing the contrasting shades between the roadway, concrete, and horse pathway. The gutters are yet to be painted.May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
Like the roadway itself, several areas of the concrete bordering the Street Car trackes have been repaired over the years. These areas were masked and received a bit more of the darker color.May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
Airbrushing the concrete lining the tracks. This will be a shade darker than the roadway.May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
Several areas of Main Street have received re-paving as part of the constant maintenance. Since these areas have newer paving they appear darker. Asphalt lightens in color as it ages. To replicate this effect I simply masked these areas and lightly sprayed a little more of the darker steet color to create a subtle contrast.May 11, 2008
The area between the track rails has been painted. The base color here is the same as the main roadway, however, only white stippling has been done as this area is lighter (whiter) than the roadway because the horses scuff it with their polyurethane shoes. Note too, the masking tape has been removed and the only area left to paint now is the concrete that surrounds the the outside of the rack rails. This will be a shade slightly darker than the roadway.May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
This is a close-up of some cracks I've created by lightly scratching them in with a hobby knife using the back edge of a #11 blade. Thinned flat black paint was flowed into the lines prior to the painting of the roadway. May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
The red lines here are flexible vinyl 1/4" masking tape over the path between the rails that the horses use. This area appears lighter so I masked it to protect it from overspray from the roadway painting process.May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
Close-up view of painting the Street Car tracks. A lot of masking was required as I'm only painting the 1/32" wide track rails. May 11, 2008
The first step in painting the roadway was to paint the Street Car rails. I used Floquil Roof Brown.May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
This is a view of the side street between the Opera House and the Disney Showcase pieces. The path of the Car System guide wire for the parade route is still discernable. I took many photos of Main Street while at the Park so I could create the paving section lines on the model. May 11, 2008
Here's a shot of one of the 14 reed switches. I've soldered solid core copper wire to the leads.May 11, 2008
May 11, 2008
There are a couple of man-hole covers that needed to be installed. The covers are N-scale photo-etched brass detail. To make them 'flush' with the road surface, I first opened a hole the diameter of the cover in a small square of .010" styrene sheet. Then, I glued this to a .060" thick square of the same dimensions. This created a .010" recess for the cover to fit into. I then cut a square out of the roadway and glued the recess flush with the road surface. A little spot-putty was used to fill around the edges.May 11, 2008
The first step in painting the roadway was to mask the Street Car tracks. I air-brushed them With Floquil brand "roof Brown" laquer-based model railroad paint. Here are the painted tracks.May 11, 2008
Since the Olszewski City Hall piece contains a bit of the roadway around Town Square, the scribing of the street section lines had to be done with it in place on the platform in order for them to be perfectly in line with those on the main roadway. Here I've masked the structure in preparation for painting.May 11, 2008
Here is where the Car System guide wire veers from the center of the roadway to skirt around the right (east) side of the Central Plaza. If you look closely, you can see the faint dark 'line' of the guide wire between the rails as it runs down the center of Main Street, even though it has been covered over by .010" styrene strips.May 05, 2008
I hid the Car System guide wire in the flangeway of the Street Cars tracks where they lead to the backstage area between the Firehouse and Emporium. The wire emerges from the flangeway to make the left turn so it can park between the rear of City Hall and the Street Car barn.May 05, 2008
My design for audio effects to be triggered by the passing Omnibus calls for 14 magnetic reed switches. Here are the 2 recesses for switches to be triggered as the bus leaves the Town Square stop. The recesses are made by first dilling 2 holes for the switch leads and then using a Dremel tool with an 1/8" ball cutter bit to create the 'trough' between them. The trick is to make the recesses just deep enough for the switches to lie about .010" bellow the surface of the roadway. May 05, 2008
This view shows how the Car System's guide wire has been laid-out to steer the Omnibus over to the right to make the stop at the Central Plaza.May 02, 2008
Here is the completed trackwork for the Street Car passing spurs. The thin, dark horrizontal lines to each side of the spurs is actually the Faller Car System's guide wire which has been imbedded but still not covered over.May 02, 2008
This view shows how our Town Square and Main Street appear with the narrower roadway. The slimmer road width brings the opposing facades of the buildings closer together and makes the town more intimate and quaint. The view of the building fronts is still very, very good.May 02, 2008
I made sure not to fill over the Car System turnout until the system's guide wire was installed.May 02, 2008
Once all the filler had been applied it was time to remove the masking tape and sand the roadway smooth and level with the tracks.May 02, 2008
May 02, 2008
Using a 1" putty knife I carefully applied the filler being sure to fill from the Street Car tracks to the edge of the street.May 02, 2008
I applied the auto body filler in small batches because the working time before it starts to harden is only about 1 1/2 minutes. Here is a batch being mixed.May 02, 2008
May 02, 2008
Masking tape has been applied to protect the Street Car tracks and the edge of the roadway because I don't want to fill the thin recessed line that separates the roadway from the gutter.May 02, 2008
Once the Street Car tracks were finished it was time to 'pave' Main Street. The tracks are masked-off before applying auto body filler to form the road surface.May 02, 2008
May 02, 2008
This is the finished passing tracks for the Street Cars.May 02, 2008
I'm working on the Car System turnout here but you can see that the 'paving' of the roadway around Town Squre has been done. The 'paving' process is shown in the photos that follow.May 02, 2008
I'll be installing a turnout for the Faller Car System to allow the Omnibus to turn to the right off the route and head backstage behind City Hall. Here I have cut out the hole necessary for the unit to be inserted up from the bottom. Another hole had to be cut into the platform surface too.May 02, 2008
An entirely new Main Street roadway was also on the 'to do' list. After some consideration of the best material for this, Tahnee suggested "Ultra-Board" which she had discovered on the internet. Ultra-Board is a very stable and lightweight 'sandwich' comprised of 1mm. PVC plastic skins over a extruded polystyrene foam core. The thickness we chose is 3/4". This material is very easy to cut, especially with a jig saw. I chose to construct our own roadway because this would allow the enlarging of the Central Plaza by being able to increase the diameter of the Street Car tracks which encircles it. Our Plaza 'hub' would not be confined within the original Olszewski Street Car tracks. However, consequently I was faced with the task of constructing Street Car tracks from scratch. Oh well. I used Plastruct 3/32" ABS "L" angle pieces (part number A-1) for the track's rails. Here I've begun by constructing the Street Car passing section.Apr 23, 2008
Piece by piece the Street Car tracks take shape.Apr 23, 2008
This is the turnout with the siding that leads the Street Cars backstage behind City Hall. This shows the desired detail lines of the modeled 'concrete' sections that outline the tracks.Apr 23, 2008
Instead of having to scribe the detail lines between the 'paved' sections I knew it would have a cleaner and sharper look if I created these lines by cutting and installing individual .010" styrene pieces. This meant a lot of cutting and gluing but I only plan on doing this job once :>)This brought the finished height level and flush with the tops of the track rails. Apr 23, 2008
In this view I'm filling the gap between the rails with .020" X .156" styrene strips. The straight sections were easy but I had to cut the curve pieces from .020" styrene sheet stock. The .020" thickness brough the height to within .010" of the top of the track rails. This was intentional and the reason is shown next.Apr 12, 2008
Here's how our Ultra-Board Main Street looks positioned on our platform.Apr 12, 2008
Here I'm framing-up the platform with 1 X 3 lumber. For strength, all corners were mitered and the entire assembly 'screwed and glued'.Apr 12, 2008
All the access hole have been cut out. The end at the top of the photo is where Main Street staion goes, and Sleeping Beauty Castle at the bottom.Apr 12, 2008
Apr 12, 2008
The left side has been done. This is the border between Main Street's west side and Adventureland.Apr 12, 2008
After the outline had been cut it was time to cut all the holes to allow the electronics to be installed and accessed under the Main Street pieces. A drill is used to round out the corners and the jig saw will be employed to 'connect the dots.' Apr 12, 2008
The time had finally arrived for constructing our own platform to enable our Main Street model to be incorporated into one of the entire park. I had to study our park plot plan to design our platform so its perimeter and borders would be the least intrussive into the other 'lands.' The idea was to not have the platform's edge mate to that of the adjoining realm right where a major structure (like Space Mountain) or water way (Rivers of America) would be located. It is nearly impossible to hide a seam in the middle of a model of a body of water. In the end, this resulted in a platform outline that appears strange and awkward but, for our purposes, entirely necessary. Our model of the park will be broken down into sections and constructed over several 'platforms.' This is known as a modular layout or model. In this view I am transferring and 'scaling up' to full size the outline of the platform from the smaller scaled park plot plan. For strength and also relatively light weight I chose 1/2" birch plywood framed up with 1 X 3 clear cut boards.Apr 12, 2008
After the outline had been drawn it was time to cut it out with a jig saw.Apr 12, 2008
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I applied the auto body filler to the area outside of the rails first although it wouldn't have made any difference had I begun by filling between the rails.Oct 12, 2007
Here is a view of the 'raised' Trolley tracks. I made sure to extend the rail height entirely through the depression.Oct 12, 2007
Our junction with the west side street and Main Street had a harsh 'dip' or depression. To fix this, I would need to not only fill the roadway but also raise the Trolley tracks too. I began this project by first super gluing .020" X .060" styrene strips to the top of the Trolley tracks thereby raising their height. I then proceeded to build up the surrounding roadway by applying a layer of auto body filler being sure to cover the entire area of the depression.Oct 12, 2007
After studying our photos of Disneyland's Main Street it was apparent that a few more lines between pavement sections were needed. This view shows my technique: after penciling-in the lines I use a metal straight edge and a hobby knife to scribe them. Notice I'm using the back edge of my #11 blade! The lines only need to be about .005" deep so light pressure and a couple of passes are all that's needed. India ink was then flowed into the lines with a small detail brush to make them stand out and also show if I'd done a good job with them. Any poor lines or mistakes can be fixed by puttying them over and trying again. This view also shows some of the putty used to fill the outside gap on the trolley tracks prior to sanding.Oct 11, 2007
In looking at the trolley tracks at the Park I noticed that there isn't a noticeable gap on the outside of the track rails. I used .020" X .020" styrene strips to fill the gap on our street and then used automotive spot putty (made by Bondo) to conceal any remaining imperfections. This is evident here at the trolly passing spurs. Filling this gap also makes the tracks appear narrower and more to scale.Oct 11, 2007
At this point the roadway around the Town Square area is looking pretty good. Additional details like manhole covers will be added before the final painting begins.Oct 11, 2007
This is our east Town Square side-street with additional hand-scribed lines.Oct 11, 2007
At this stage the roadway has been primered. It is necessary to do this to be able to discern any remaining flaws with the putty work and line details. It may be necessary to repeat the primer coat to reveal any remaining small flaws.Oct 11, 2007
Once the Trolley track extension has been epoxied in place I used pieces of 1/8" thick extruded ABS plastic to fill in the remaining gaps. The street has now been extended and will allow the Olszewski pieces to be aligned around the Hub.Sep 30, 2007
I used a 1 15/16"section of the Troley tracks taken from our leftover piece from the City Hall makeover.Sep 30, 2007
Here is the separated and re-spaced Hub.Sep 30, 2007
Because we are endeavoring to build a model of the entire Park, it is paramount that the Central Plaza (Hub) and the surrounding pieces are located according to my plot plan of the Park. In order to get the Frontierland, Adventureland and Tomorrowland (Astro Orbitor) entrance pieces aligned around the Hub, Main Street needs to be lengthened 1 15/16". Here I'm beginning to saw the street to separate the Hub using the scribed line closest to the Hub as a guide.Sep 30, 2007
I have used Bondo auto body filler to smooth the area between the Train Station and City Hall pieces. The same treatment will be applied to the Opera House side.Sep 30, 2007
East Plaza Street (top of photo) and Photo Corner also is now better aligned with West Plaza Street and Coke Corner. We now have the locations of all the structures from Main Street Station to the Plaza Streets locked-in (whew!). We'll be addressing the Plaza Inn and Plaza Pavillion pieces next.Sep 12, 2007
The benefit of the new position of the Disney Showcase is illustrated here with East Center Street (top of photo) now correctly aligned with West Center Street.Sep 12, 2007
A straight edge here shows the improved alignment between the Emporium (at the lower left) and the Disney Showcase. In addition to the material removed on the east side street, approximately 3/16" was removed from the front sidewalk (the 45 degree angled side) of the Showcase piece. As shown here, sidewalks closest to Town Square on the Emporium and Showcase pieces are now correctly aligned at a 90 degree plane to Main Street.Sep 12, 2007
The dark line running diagonally through the center of this photo marks the amount of material from the east Town Square side street that will be removed. This will allow the Disney Showcase piece to be moved closer to Town Square, thus allowing all the pieces on the east side of Main Street to slide down. This will improve the alignment of the buildings on both sides of Main Street to more accurately replicate their true relationship at the Park.Sep 12, 2007
All done! It took me about 45 minutes to complete the removal of material all the way around. This job brings the buildings on either side of the street about 3/8" closer together. Sep 03, 2007
Main Street is now being narrowed by using the same tools and technique employed on the Town Square project. When finished, our Main Street between Town Square and the Plaza will be just 3" wide.Sep 03, 2007
It's done! The hole for Town Square has now been enlarged. Notice the proximity of the new edge to the Trolley tracks.Sep 03, 2007
I'm now removing the material with a Dremel tool with a 60 grit sanding drum. I'm being careful to keep the tool 90 degrees to the roadway. If you do this be sure to wear a dust mask. It's best to perform this job outdoors!Sep 03, 2007
If you look closely you'll be able to see the line I've drawn around the inside of the Horse Drawn Trolley tracks. This will be the material removed to enlarge our hole for our scratch-built Town Square. The curb at Disneyland's Town Square is very close to the running board on the Trolley cars -about 6"- so, enlarging the hole will bring our curb line closer to replicating this. The Train Station has been covered with a plastic shopping bag to prevent dust from getting on it during the sanding operation.Sep 03, 2007
Here is our Main Street after it's been narrowed by 3/8."Sep 03, 2007
Since our Main Street buildings will be permanently installed on our platform, holes have to be cut to allow access to the electrical components. After placing the pieces in precise position, I marked the areas on the PLatform to be removed. If you choose to do this be mindfull of the cross bracing. You don't want to cut through these!Aug 22, 2007
Because we are "paving" the sidewalk areas with brick pattern paper it is necessary to install new curbing so the bricks will be flush. I use .010" by .040" styrene strips for the curbing. I carefully glue it in place following the original curb line. In this photo the curbing has been masked prior to painting.Aug 20, 2007
The new curbing has been painted. I first used a light grey base coat and then stiple painted the curb with a weathered black to simulate the texture of stone. A little overspray has managed to get onto the base of the firebox but is easily fixed.Aug 20, 2007
Before the Bondo was completely cured I used a Sureform blade to remove the excess filler down to the desired level. This saves a lot of extra sanding.Aug 19, 2007
Close up of street work.Aug 19, 2007
Here's a shot of the filler. It was necessary to apply a couple of separate coats to fill the entire section completely.Aug 19, 2007
I found our street piece was a bit low in front of City Hall which had the effect of creating a very tall curb there. To remedy this I used some .100" styrene strip and glued it to the street edge following the curb. I was careful not to glue it to the City Hall base. The styrene set the new street level so the next step was to sand the ends gently to blend them out to the "good" street level on either side. Then, after masking off the trolly tracks, I used plastic auto body filler (Bondo) to fill in the new street. In this view the tracks have been masked and I'm ready to add the filler.Aug 19, 2007
Aug 19, 2007
I positioned the Town Square side roads with all the surrounding buildings in place and then tacked them to the Main Street piece with a bit of super glue. I then removed Main Street from the platform and filled the sizeable joint gap underneath with five minute epoxy. This is a close-up of the firehouse side.Aug 19, 2007
Street and Opera House Postioned with the Train StationAug 06, 2007
Jul 28, 2007
Cutting a piece off of the Opera HouseA piece of the Opera House base needs to be removed to allow it to be re-positioned in proximity to the Train Station base.Jul 28, 2007
Marking the Opera House base before cutting.Jul 28, 2007
Piece of Particle Board RemovedA piece of the Town Square support is removed so that the street can be re-positioned.Jul 28, 2007
Removing a Piece of Particle BoardJul 28, 2007
Cutting a piece of Town Square support.Jul 28, 2007
Marking the Areas to be CutJul 28, 2007
Marking the Piece to be CutWe opted to reposition the street against the Train Station for more scale accuracy. To achieve this meant we had to modify the platform. This will also involve further modification of the Olszewski pieces (like the souvenir kiosks and the Opera House base) but we felt it's worth it. NOTE: this can only be done if Z gauge trains and track are used as the N gauge track curves do not allow clearance for the City Hall and Opera House pieces! This is why there is a "spacer" between the Train Staion base and the Main Street road piece.Jul 28, 2007
Track and roadbed in Place on the Train StationAll that's left to do now is ballast the rest of the track. I used Highball brand N scale ballast because it is actually crushed real rock and stays in place during the gluing process.Jul 28, 2007
Adding Glue for the GrassJul 28, 2007
Adding Grass to the LandscapeI mixed several colors of finely ground foam and applied it over the painted landscape.Jul 28, 2007
Painting the TrackI airbrushed the track with Floquil roof brown paint for a more realistic color. This was done outside!Jul 28, 2007
Platform before PaintingJul 28, 2007
The Celluclay is dry and ready for painting. I use a light tan color latex house paint to color and seal the Celluclay. Jul 28, 2007
Enlarged Train Station HoleThe Train Station hole is enlarged for easy access to electronics and to lighten the platform. In place of the rubber feet, basswood and plastic is used to shim the Train Station.Jul 28, 2007
Placing Celluclay Over the Foam RoadbedI've been using Celluclay Instant Papier Mache to create model landscaping for four decades. It is very easy to mix and use and non-toxic. It is available in white or grey and I've even mixed in (though not here) brown latex house paint to color it before application. It is available through hobby and craft retailers.Jul 28, 2007
Dried Celluclay over Foam RoadbedJul 28, 2007
Track in Place and Connected with the Train Station PieceNo cork was used accross the Olszewski Main Street Train Station piece in order to keep the track height as low as possible in front of the station. Jul 28, 2007
Cork Roadbed Pinned in Place until Glue SetsZ scale cork roadbed was glued on top of the foam to complete our track roadbed.Jul 28, 2007
The Foam Sub-Roadbed for the RoadwayWe built up the new roadbed using 1/2" foam risers. The foam risers are available from Woodland Scenics. The material is extremely lightweight and easy to work with. Since eventually we'll be constructing a model of the entire park and thus requiring the right of way to be re-directed, the roadbed will be easy to remove later.Jul 28, 2007
Shaping the Landscape BaseWe used extruded insulating foam over the 1/2" Woodland Scenics risers. This material is dense and spans all the gaps between the risers making laying the track much easier. It is easy to contour -though a bit messy- and is available through home improvement stores. Made by Dow Chemical, it is available in sheets 2' X 8' and several thicknesses from 3/4" to 4". We used 3/4" thick pieces.Jul 28, 2007
Finished Trimmed Piece Positioned on the PlatformThis view shows the saved landscaping while the original track roadbed is gone.Jul 28, 2007
Removing and replacing the original track roadbed.We decided to use Z gauge track and trains on our platform. Because the Z track's curve radius would be different than the supplied N gauge roadbed, it required us to reconstruct the entire track roadbed around the platform. A side benefit was we lost about 15lbs off the platform's weight. After removing the the supplied roadbed we proceded to cut the pieces to retain the Olszewski landscaping areas behind the Main Street buildings. A band or scroll saw is necessary to perform this task. Here a power sander is used to smooth the edges and refine the shape.Jul 28, 2007
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